![]() If you’re trying to match a wood stain color at Home Depot, they may be able to help. ![]() Whatever the reason, it’s important to know that Home Depot can match any wood stain you bring in. Maybe they’re trying to touch up an old piece of furniture or they’re trying to repair damage that’s been done to their hardwood floors. That color is effing awful to tint, it’s nearly impossible to get just right IMO.Īnyways, those are the observations that come to my mind sitting in my hotel room in Atlanta for SW assistant manager training after roughly 4 glasses of Evan Williams, so I apologize if they’re not terribly coherent thoughts.There are many reasons why someone might want to have wood stain matched at Home Depot. ![]() IMO the worst colors are grays or the gold cabinet color that honestly just looks more “old and yellowed” than “gold”. Add small amounts of color at a time if need be and get comfortable with the process. You start with easy stains if possible (medium browns-dark browns are easiest) and get comfortable. We all learned about mixing blue/red to make purple and all that when we were kids. The customers themselves are probably more intimidating than the actual stain match. Say you make 5 alterations to a gallon that’s 15 mins in the shaker alone, not accounting for time taken to tint, check the color or to help other customers that come in.ĭon’t be intimidated by it. Shoot, you’re supposed to shake stain for 3 mins. Ask the customer how soon they need it/if they mind it but let them know it can take time. Your store probably has a chart somewhere with tips on what colorant to add to “fix” a color if it’s too far in one direction or another and that’ll apply to paint or stain. start small and add a little at a time.) Or say you need a gray stain but there’s nothing prepackaged that’s close? Grab a clear base and shoot a little white and black at a time and see how it goes. Learn the color wheel! If your stain is too red or the wood is taking the stain too red, what do you do to try to kill that red while still keeping the brown? Add a shot of green (not much at first, a little can go a long way. ![]() We have had a few occasions where we don’t even have to tint that shit, it’s a perfect match with no colorant lol. Anytime someone has a cabinet/door/trim match that’s that standard brown (not TOO dark and not TOO red but just standard brown) the chestnut base is usually a stellar starting point. Pro tip: My boss and I swear by the chestnut base. It’s great for matching and just high quality all around. Idk if your store sells the Sherwood BAC Wiping stain but that stuff is phenomenal. It’ll probably be too light but that’s ok, it’s better to have to add to it than to mistint a quart/gallon and have to start over. so the best thing to do IMO is if you DO find something that looks good DON’T immediately shoot the full formula in and assume it’ll be close. Red oak can bring out the red in stain, poplar has a green tinge. Keep in mind that different woods bring out different tones. Often the customer will say they don’t have any and that’s fine, but set expectations that EVERY PIECE OF WOOD takes stain differently so you matching their sample on a damn stir stick instead of the good wood they’ll be using isn’t going to give them optimum results.Īs someone else mentioned, put the sample you have up against prepackaged colors and see what’s closest. We can’t get very close if we’re matching on some random piece of wood we have laying around and they’re using high quality red oak or something. Always try to get a sample of the wood they’ll actually be using from the customer. So I’ve picked up a lot of tricks from him. Depends of course what you’re matching and what product you’re using so I’m going to throw some totally random thoughts at you and hopefully some of these help! I’ve been at SW for almost 5 years and I’m pretty good at stain matching but my manager (I’m an assistant) is an absolute demigod at matching stains.
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